I agree on the taper your own tip concept, I don’t worry if the shafts I find are taper or not, there is always a way to make it work.

Hey Steve, it's been a while since I've seen something new (to me, anyway) in club building. Can you elaborate on your technique? I think I'm going to reshaft my Eye 2's this way over the winter. Thanks!

    sdandrea1

    I've done both methods . Whittling graphite to taper is probably just as cumbersome than reaming heads , but to ream heads you need the proper equipment. but 2 ways to skin that cat. I'd suggest that a ferrule is utilized in Pings for additional security.

    just don't go the other way and use taper shafts in parallel heads unless you lop off the 5/8 inch taper part .

      Bankshot

      tape off the shaft at 5/8 inch up from tip , carefully abrade the shaft tip using a belt sanding machine. If you have a hand held belt sander just secure it in a vice upside down . You don't need to remove much and can easily remove too much so go easy.

        I prep the entire amount of tip that equals the depth of the hosel and then I hand sand the distal (bottom) 5/8" with a strip of sandpaper, carefully turning the shaft after a few strokes and measuring FREQUENTLY until the bottom 5/8" is .355. I use digital calipers. If you have a belt sander, be careful to not get too much material off. I sand, measure, sand, measure, sand measure, etc. Boring the hosels means you have to use shims if you decide to put the stock shafts back in, but if you have a drill press and a good reaming bit, using .370 shafts with standard tipping works too.

          Easy peasy with a belt sander using 120 to 150 grit. As some have said, the most material removal will be on the bottom 5/8th inch. Hold the tip at an angle away from the belt. Go slow, fitting as you go.

          Some years back there were many graphite shafts to choose from. At one time there were over 50 manufacturers and some say closer to 100 to choose from. Many clubmakers would latch on to several manufacturers quite often for the sole reason that none of their local competitors were using them. I know two standalone, custom clubmakers with shops close to each other that had a gentleman's handshake to feature different manufactures. One shop featured Brunswick/FCM steel shafts and Harrison graphite shaft. The other shop featured True Temper steel shafts and Aldila graphite shafts. These were agreements made for sales/marketing reasons not for technical reasons. Like featuring Apollo and
          Fiber-X......LOL

          Any opinions re I Drive Tour shafts?
          I have 4 , 5 hybrids with them & they play ok. Not as high launching as I think hybrids should though. Getting tired of trolling Web for a deal for my reshaft project Eye 2 + cheapos from PIAS.

          Done
          Ordered DTG store Matrix Studio84 Sr flex


          Shafts were 3x $ paid for eye 2s so I'll have ~ $116
          Invested. If Matrix shafts suit , plan to buy more to use them in the Mizzys too. DG 300R 126 grams in them just too much heft for the old geezer without swinging out of my socks which is unadvisable on several levels .

            Provisional changed the title to Fenwick world class shafts ---> Matrix Studio 84 .

            Thanks to Peter and Steve and others for answering my question. Apologies to Provisional for the thread jack!

              Bankshot no jack here so be happy
              Actually shaft questions appropo to my use into my Eye2s & Mizzys . I'll have more since I've never swapped graphite for steel. Friendly advice , equipment hoing and chatting is why I'm here.
              I'm courious as to how my reshaft will affect swing feel if I don't add length or extra wt also. Not sure what Wt my steel shafts are. The Matrix are ~ 80 grams they say.

                  Provisional

                  Nice choice on the shafts! If swingweight is important to you, final shaft length is one way to affect it. Given the difference in weight of the steel you are pulling vs the graphites going in, you could start by making the graphite final length 1/2" longer than the steel final length was. I use an old grip that weighs about the same as the grips I am using, split it down the middle and dry fit it to check swingweight (on a SW scale) before final butt trim and gripping. Or, you can make them all the same length as they were in steel and go with a lighter swingweight or add lead tape in the cavities, or tip weights in the shafts.

                  Let us know how it goes!!

                    Provisional Landon (@LBlack14)is playing these shafts right now.

                    From reading about them, I'd say they will play very firm to flex; appears to have a stiff tip.

                        sdandrea1 rea1#34850
                        My Raptures are about d0 I think so plus or minus 2-3 sw would be great . Don't know what the steel shafted Eye 2+ s. Wt. is ; do you? Thinking it best to stay with stock steel lengths and let sw fall wherever it may unless assembled club feel is way off. I don't mind some lead tape on club heads either. Makes you look like a club mechanic or playa. LoL. My drivers have Pb tape too. Getting excited now. Hope that the heavier graphite shafts play more like steel and Sr. Flex isn't too whippy for my abrupt transition .

                            Par4QC Thanks for comments .
                            The heavier wt. and mid trajectory is big part of why I selected them. I wanted to stay near the performance , & feel of the steel shafts & lose 10-15 grams shaft wt. It's a stab in the dark, but my swing isn't refined enough for fine nuances so doubt I'll be disappointed . I regularly play r flex graphite fat shafted Wilson Deep Red Distance II which folks say play stiffer than r flex too. Maybe the Sr flex with firm tip Matrix will fit my needs as I want to be on the soft side of regular flex or stiffer side of Sr. Flex. if that makes any sense. Thought about soft stepping an r flex but these should be good tipping per instructions ?
                            I do know graphite is my good friend to keep arthritis tendonitis at bay & gets me enough distance improvement to keep me from swinging out of my socks to get it there.

                                sdandrea1
                                All my shaft mark tapes gone and mixed up clubs from different sets. So who knows whazwhat. Even at that they played ok. A Fixn to be mobetter y'all . Hope your arthritis is better . Likely Will be if you put the graphites back into the bag ? My Wilson graphite fat shafts are back in mine for now.

                                😆

                                    Provisional I think you will be fine with them, the shafts feel stiff to flex and play similar to that feel. I have put a few people in them, the comment every time is “ they don’t feel whippey like my old set”, they aren’t, but they perform. One particular guy gained 25-30 yards on his hybrids, which he had struggled with after simply moving to the “same” flex in the Matrix. Obviously, they weren’t the same in reality, but you get the idea.

                                        DC300
                                        Thanks , whippy isn't good feeling. My soft tipped Ping driver felt like that when I'd get after it. Not an issue with fat shafts in my old Wilsons, for sure. The Bassara that replaced Ping doesn't feel whippy either . Shorting the length probability helped too.
                                        Not sure exactly best swing wt. approach I should take with my Eye2s and these graphites since shaft wt drop is about 20 grams. I'll check weights & dry fit each one to see . Wouldn't mind a C8 or 9 & perhaps shorten or lengthen 1/4" to dial in along with lead tape .