" I would return those shafts, if it were me, unless time has expired to do so"

This.
They are basically useless to him.

    Spuzz yeah, I think Ebay has extended the time for claims also.

      The Fenwick shafts are on ebay by Mcshafters store. Glad I asked. I'll pass on them.

      MANY THANKS!

      I like the one in my hybrid and have had a nice bass casting rod from them many moons ago.

      I need err,want a set 5-pw and looking for senior flex set high 70+ - 80 ish gram wt.
      Saw a 7 piece precut set of Cobra shafts in my low $ range on ebay too but can't come to make myself put them in ping head??? Afraid lightning might strike me. Hurricane has Grafalloy axis reasonably $$ that might do. Was hoping not to hand taper .370" to .355 but might have to. Not lazy just never tried it , yet, and don't want to screw it up.
      I just want to do a journeyman decent job. No "Eye" candy.

      Don't forget it is VERY easy to hand taper .370 graphite shafts. That opens up a whole new world of choices.

        sdandrea1
        Good point Steve

        It is if the shafts are sufficiently thick walled and the head has a sufficient hosel depth .

        It's only the distal 5/8 inch that needs to be tapered and the rest can stay parallel.

        Definitely wear eyewear and a mask as the dust and fibers are not your friend

            Weirfan

            I have done MANY sets of PINGs this way and it is much easier (IMO) than boring out the hosels.

                I agree on the taper your own tip concept, I don’t worry if the shafts I find are taper or not, there is always a way to make it work.

                Hey Steve, it's been a while since I've seen something new (to me, anyway) in club building. Can you elaborate on your technique? I think I'm going to reshaft my Eye 2's this way over the winter. Thanks!

                  sdandrea1

                  I've done both methods . Whittling graphite to taper is probably just as cumbersome than reaming heads , but to ream heads you need the proper equipment. but 2 ways to skin that cat. I'd suggest that a ferrule is utilized in Pings for additional security.

                  just don't go the other way and use taper shafts in parallel heads unless you lop off the 5/8 inch taper part .

                    Bankshot

                    tape off the shaft at 5/8 inch up from tip , carefully abrade the shaft tip using a belt sanding machine. If you have a hand held belt sander just secure it in a vice upside down . You don't need to remove much and can easily remove too much so go easy.

                      I prep the entire amount of tip that equals the depth of the hosel and then I hand sand the distal (bottom) 5/8" with a strip of sandpaper, carefully turning the shaft after a few strokes and measuring FREQUENTLY until the bottom 5/8" is .355. I use digital calipers. If you have a belt sander, be careful to not get too much material off. I sand, measure, sand, measure, sand measure, etc. Boring the hosels means you have to use shims if you decide to put the stock shafts back in, but if you have a drill press and a good reaming bit, using .370 shafts with standard tipping works too.

                        Easy peasy with a belt sander using 120 to 150 grit. As some have said, the most material removal will be on the bottom 5/8th inch. Hold the tip at an angle away from the belt. Go slow, fitting as you go.

                        Some years back there were many graphite shafts to choose from. At one time there were over 50 manufacturers and some say closer to 100 to choose from. Many clubmakers would latch on to several manufacturers quite often for the sole reason that none of their local competitors were using them. I know two standalone, custom clubmakers with shops close to each other that had a gentleman's handshake to feature different manufactures. One shop featured Brunswick/FCM steel shafts and Harrison graphite shaft. The other shop featured True Temper steel shafts and Aldila graphite shafts. These were agreements made for sales/marketing reasons not for technical reasons. Like featuring Apollo and
                        Fiber-X......LOL

                        Any opinions re I Drive Tour shafts?
                        I have 4 , 5 hybrids with them & they play ok. Not as high launching as I think hybrids should though. Getting tired of trolling Web for a deal for my reshaft project Eye 2 + cheapos from PIAS.

                        Done
                        Ordered DTG store Matrix Studio84 Sr flex


                        Shafts were 3x $ paid for eye 2s so I'll have ~ $116
                        Invested. If Matrix shafts suit , plan to buy more to use them in the Mizzys too. DG 300R 126 grams in them just too much heft for the old geezer without swinging out of my socks which is unadvisable on several levels .

                          Provisional changed the title to Fenwick world class shafts ---> Matrix Studio 84 .

                          Thanks to Peter and Steve and others for answering my question. Apologies to Provisional for the thread jack!

                            Bankshot no jack here so be happy
                            Actually shaft questions appropo to my use into my Eye2s & Mizzys . I'll have more since I've never swapped graphite for steel. Friendly advice , equipment hoing and chatting is why I'm here.
                            I'm courious as to how my reshaft will affect swing feel if I don't add length or extra wt also. Not sure what Wt my steel shafts are. The Matrix are ~ 80 grams they say.

                                Provisional

                                Nice choice on the shafts! If swingweight is important to you, final shaft length is one way to affect it. Given the difference in weight of the steel you are pulling vs the graphites going in, you could start by making the graphite final length 1/2" longer than the steel final length was. I use an old grip that weighs about the same as the grips I am using, split it down the middle and dry fit it to check swingweight (on a SW scale) before final butt trim and gripping. Or, you can make them all the same length as they were in steel and go with a lighter swingweight or add lead tape in the cavities, or tip weights in the shafts.

                                Let us know how it goes!!

                                  Provisional Landon (@LBlack14)is playing these shafts right now.

                                  From reading about them, I'd say they will play very firm to flex; appears to have a stiff tip.