Matrix Reloaded

Provisional

Considering these for reshaft project for eye2+ or maybe MP57s
Wanting to see how they'd do for me dropping back from r flex to a flex in my irons.
I don't know about the frequency 2 though. I have Fenwick world class with fm 5 in a 3 hybrid which is good shaft.
Help plz🏌🏿
They are .355 , 37", 86 g , new uncut

Par4QC

Not sure where the 2 came from as these shafts started at(FM Precision scale) 2.5 and ran up to 8. So, I'd say those were about as soft as you can get, in that line.

The butt end should be showing freq., weight, and torque. There should also be a serial# on each shaft.

Another point is that these are 'dedicated' shafts; different lengths for each iron #. So you have all the same shafts at 37". Not sure how they might work in a 'set'.

Good ol' Made in the USA shafts! (Iowa)

Provisional

Thank you
I was afraid they'd be too soft but not aware about dedicated issue. Was just planning to butt cut to length
To make up set
Thought I had found heavier iron shaft set for good bargin and quality

Par4QC

Weirfan Does Fenwick still make shafts ?

Thinking they may have quit about 11 yrs., or so, ago.

Provisional Thank you
I was afraid they'd be too soft but not aware about dedicated issue. Was just planning to butt cut to length
To make up set
Thought I had found heavier iron shaft set for good bargin and quality

Have to be real careful of some of those Ebay fellas. They may be selling good products, but they sometimes do not realize what they have. There used to be a seller with a ton of Penley shafts that sold these same types of 'sets'. When looking at the close up views, I could see the labels on the butt stating the 'dedicated' iron #....they were (most times) all the same, or several of 1 and several of the another, in the sets. They were .370 tips though and it would take a club building 'mechanic' to build a proper set of clubs using them. If they even could.

Funny thing about the Penley seller...I messaged him and told him if he took the time to sort/separate the shafts into proper sets, he could actually double the price and sell out. He replied that he 'did not have the time'. duh.

I would return those shafts, if it were me, unless time has expired to do so. I see what you might have paid, and it is not chickenfeed!!

Weirfan

Does Fenwick still make shafts ?

I have 3 or 4 of their fishing rods which are excellent quality .

Bill

Weirfan

I've got a few of their Eagle spinning rods. They're the best value out there, IMO.

mulegolf

I haven't heard that name for a long time. Where did you find them? They were made about 1.5 hrs. from me at Spirit Lake, Iowa (next to where Victory motorcycles are made, I believe). I thought that Fenwick dropped out of golf a quite a few years ago and concentrated their business on fishing rods. It used to be that I could go to the Fenwick factory and buy shafts direct from them, or so I was told by one of their representatives. I never did that though because they were a pretty stout shaft and even with my 105-110 swing speed back the, I couldn't handle their green colored shafts. Most of their shafts were kind of a fugly almost grass green color. Fenwick fishing was started in Washington, near a lake of the same name.

Spuzz

" I would return those shafts, if it were me, unless time has expired to do so"

This.
They are basically useless to him.

Par4QC

Spuzz yeah, I think Ebay has extended the time for claims also.

Provisional

The Fenwick shafts are on ebay by Mcshafters store. Glad I asked. I'll pass on them.

MANY THANKS!

I like the one in my hybrid and have had a nice bass casting rod from them many moons ago.

I need err,want a set 5-pw and looking for senior flex set high 70+ - 80 ish gram wt.
Saw a 7 piece precut set of Cobra shafts in my low $ range on ebay too but can't come to make myself put them in ping head??? Afraid lightning might strike me. Hurricane has Grafalloy axis reasonably $$ that might do. Was hoping not to hand taper .370" to .355 but might have to. Not lazy just never tried it , yet, and don't want to screw it up.
I just want to do a journeyman decent job. No "Eye" candy.

sdandrea1

Don't forget it is VERY easy to hand taper .370 graphite shafts. That opens up a whole new world of choices.

Weirfan

sdandrea1
Good point Steve

It is if the shafts are sufficiently thick walled and the head has a sufficient hosel depth .

It's only the distal 5/8 inch that needs to be tapered and the rest can stay parallel.

Definitely wear eyewear and a mask as the dust and fibers are not your friend

sdandrea1

Weirfan

I have done MANY sets of PINGs this way and it is much easier (IMO) than boring out the hosels.

Weirfan

sdandrea1

I've done both methods . Whittling graphite to taper is probably just as cumbersome than reaming heads , but to ream heads you need the proper equipment. but 2 ways to skin that cat. I'd suggest that a ferrule is utilized in Pings for additional security.

just don't go the other way and use taper shafts in parallel heads unless you lop off the 5/8 inch taper part .

DC300

I agree on the taper your own tip concept, I don’t worry if the shafts I find are taper or not, there is always a way to make it work.

Bankshot

Hey Steve, it's been a while since I've seen something new (to me, anyway) in club building. Can you elaborate on your technique? I think I'm going to reshaft my Eye 2's this way over the winter. Thanks!

Weirfan

Bankshot

tape off the shaft at 5/8 inch up from tip , carefully abrade the shaft tip using a belt sanding machine. If you have a hand held belt sander just secure it in a vice upside down . You don't need to remove much and can easily remove too much so go easy.

sdandrea1

I prep the entire amount of tip that equals the depth of the hosel and then I hand sand the distal (bottom) 5/8" with a strip of sandpaper, carefully turning the shaft after a few strokes and measuring FREQUENTLY until the bottom 5/8" is .355. I use digital calipers. If you have a belt sander, be careful to not get too much material off. I sand, measure, sand, measure, sand measure, etc. Boring the hosels means you have to use shims if you decide to put the stock shafts back in, but if you have a drill press and a good reaming bit, using .370 shafts with standard tipping works too.

Provisional

sdandrea1 rea1#34850
My Raptures are about d0 I think so plus or minus 2-3 sw would be great . Don't know what the steel shafted Eye 2+ s. Wt. is ; do you? Thinking it best to stay with stock steel lengths and let sw fall wherever it may unless assembled club feel is way off. I don't mind some lead tape on club heads either. Makes you look like a club mechanic or playa. LoL. My drivers have Pb tape too. Getting excited now. Hope that the heavier graphite shafts play more like steel and Sr. Flex isn't too whippy for my abrupt transition .

accufitgolf

Easy peasy with a belt sander using 120 to 150 grit. As some have said, the most material removal will be on the bottom 5/8th inch. Hold the tip at an angle away from the belt. Go slow, fitting as you go.

accufitgolf

Some years back there were many graphite shafts to choose from. At one time there were over 50 manufacturers and some say closer to 100 to choose from. Many clubmakers would latch on to several manufacturers quite often for the sole reason that none of their local competitors were using them. I know two standalone, custom clubmakers with shops close to each other that had a gentleman's handshake to feature different manufactures. One shop featured Brunswick/FCM steel shafts and Harrison graphite shaft. The other shop featured True Temper steel shafts and Aldila graphite shafts. These were agreements made for sales/marketing reasons not for technical reasons. Like featuring Apollo and
Fiber-X......LOL