backinit I have starting using Bob Smith Industries - BSI-203H. It has a working time of 5 - 10 minutes. Available on eBay and Amazon. Good stuff.

BSI has good quality stuff but I don't know that I would use that for golf clubs. It looks just like JB Weld. It is almost impossible to pull a shaft from a head that used JB Weld without scorching it. The videos on Amazon show people trying to drill and grind it. Golf shafting epoxy maintains a bit of flexibility for shock absorption. Leave left over glue on a paper plate and after it is dry you can bend the leftover glue. A local dealer used to sell shafting epoxy with his store label on it. He told me he got it from Golfsmith in 5 gallon cans and bottled it with his label. He needed to reorder and GS was out so they had it drop shipped from the mfgr. which was the Hardman Corp.. You can find Hardman Epoweld on ebaybay.

      Rickochet This stuff maintains a very small amount of flexibility after drying. I see that as a good thing. By the looks of things you can play it after about 60 - 90 minutes.
      I'll report back after disassembly.

        Rickochet t is almost impossible to pull a shaft from a head that used JB Weld without scorching it.

        I found that where someone used JB Weld on a putter shaft extension. I had to saw it off 🙄.

            sdandrea1 Those heads point in different directions. Ambidexterous?

            Tried to fix it for you, but now the print on the I-Drives is all wrong :

            What the heck, they're not for myself so I'll send them out to my clients as they are.

              Typhoon I found that where someone used JB Weld on a putter shaft extension. I had to saw it off 🙄.

              I bought a component fairway wood years ago that needed a reshafting. I almost had to use nuclear weapons to get the glue to release and ended up scorching the crap out of the head. I asked the seller what he used to glue on the head and he told me it was JB Weld. After that I no longer bought a club unless I knew what kind of glue was used.

                backinit Just an update. I did a pull on a graphite shafted club with Bob Smith's epoxy. It was fairly clean. It might have taken a little more time vs Bramptons. I would say 2 3-4 minute sessions rotating the hosel with the heat gun on high so not terrible at all.

                  10 days later

                  I was able to successfully push the Ping ferrule off the Ninja shaft and keep it with the adapter. I put the TM adapter on the Ninja shaft. I think is going to be 48.25”😁😁. Fine with me. The shaft with the adapter came out to 47”

                    Typhoon I think is going to be 48.25”

                    There really is no need now to ever play a club that long, plus it will 'tell you' nothing about anything. Illegal anyway. Even the LD fellas are using the shorter ones now.
                    I may sneak an extra 1/4 at times, but now staying at 46 myself. Even trimmed a couple last week for compliance.

                    I mean, I just don't wanna be 'that guy' that hits the 388 bomb.....then have someone say...'oh sure, with an illegal club'. 🤣

                    EDIT: Must be behind in times, or didn't read/understand. But, driver length is still 48", for everyone. 46" is a 'local rule' for tournaments. Looks like the LD is still using the longer.

                        I used to look at his 46-1/2" (I think) SMT DB VS339 wondering how the hell did he square that up. Now look at the stuff he's talking about..

                        I took a 15 minute break from moving and epoxied the Nippons into my new @LogicalOne wedges. I fashioned a small workspace in the utility room in the basement. Not sure how I'm going to butt trim and grip them though ......😳😵‍💫

                          Helped my assistant pro spine align/weight & match his Cobra RF blades, Project X 7.0, and GP mid cords.

                          He was very happy with the results and hit them great. I had to try them to see how nice they felt. 👍🏌