How do you feel about reaming .355 heads to .370?
Why? To open the variety of shaft availability and trimming options.
I've done it many times without issue. With the bonding of today's epoxy, I don't think the "mechanical" bond of the taper tip is as big of an issue. Plus I see more and more OEM's in parallel now.
Your thoughts...
Tried it.
Although it's possible to do it with just some garage tools, it's better to use a drill press if you could get to use it.
Also found out not all the hosel bores were straight up and down with even wall thickness. Some were crooked so be careful when enlarging the bore.
I would not practice on the hosel which been bent in the past.
I've never tried it, but used to see some wood clamps for holding hosel parallel (one of the tinkerers long ago on the clubmaking forum). There's also a recommended reamer. But ought to work OK with a drill press.
I am doing these later this week. I have done it before using a 3/8" Cobalt drill bit on slow RPM with cutting oil and I am doing these with a Golfworks .370 hosel fluted reamer bit. It is easy - just be careful about not deepening the hosel. I marked my bit with a sharpie at the stopping point. The fluted reamer is not an issue - it is flat-tipped and stops at the bottom of the hosel. L & L Golf in GA (Ron Oneal) just refurbished these for me. $13/head. You can find him on eBay 
Of Note: Vintage PING purists will say I have killed the value of these, but they are for me to collect and play.
Love those Zings.
I might reshaft mine later this year.
Additionally, I plan to use a 3/8" tap to cut some very shallow threads in the hosel - my theory is this will help with bonding. I have seen threads in Mizuno iron heads.
It must be great to have some time on hands.
I'm so busy, don't even have time to golf. May also try to find a part time job for moonlight. 42 grant for one year of tuition plus room and board for out of State graduate program, and I have one other in undergrad.
I might say good bye to golf for a long long time.
Very good looking!!!
Ream, ream, ream, ream. Do not drill. With a good reamer, reaming can be done by hand. No need for a drill press.
I am a bit late for the party but here is a pic of some wooden clamps I use for reaming on my drill press. Just cut some "V"s out of some blocks. Poke the hosel up through the hole in the drill press table and clamp the blocks onto the hosel. I use "C" clamps but you could run bolts through the blocks with wing nuts. Do not lock the table down or clamp the blocks to the table. Just hold onto the blocks and allow it to flloat. That will allow the bit to remain self centering.
Look nice, Steve, but how much did you tip these? I would normally expect to see even 1/2 inch progression of the graphics. Yours appear to be 'grouped'.
