DC300
The tackimac arthritis serrated oversized is what I put on both my pung rapture v2 s and my wilson deep red dist II iron sets.
They allow much reduced grip pressure and are great in wet too. They shred gloves. To Most good players, they are like vegetable peelers but they suit me. I'm happy just to break 100 now days. Ugg!

Got my shafts from DTG this AM
Getting excited to start the swap but didn't order ferrules; oh ... Pings don't get ferrules but shafts look so inviting I'm about almost persuaded to pull DG 300s from my MP 57s. and fit the new Matrix into them this time around. They are low key grey color so won't be as pretty as LBs blue ones. Anyway, Spuzz will approve??
Since they have firm tip and im low ball hitter, wondering what soft stepping tip cut 1/4 " would do , but since they are my first sr flex irons to try , maybe smarter to stay with mfg tipping instructions and hopefully trajectory will be higher than my regular flex irons.
Seems like I'm loosing more distance every time out lately . Hit what I thought was an excellent drive for me on tough parr 5 today with a really good line & hard fw bounce so measured with gps watch going to it. Just at 200 With rollout too. same thing on several other what seemed good driver strikes with volvic vivid balls. Calloway next time But thinking it's about Indian , not arrows.
Anyway nice comfortable day for an afternoon of geezer 9 holes with noone coming up from behind and driving straight mostly was nice too. Made parr on longest parr 5 hole #7, one putting the 5th shot infrom ~15 ' oh yes!
Ramble ramble ramble , šŸ˜

    Provisional

    I wondered what those serrations would do to gloves; I like the size, wasnā€™t sure about the feel of them. Thank you for the feedback.

    It sounds like you have something creeping in on the swing to be losing distance each time out. I have definitely been there, coming up way short on everything, turned out I was hitting ā€œto the ball, not throughā€, once I made sure I wasnā€™t targeting the back of the ball, boom right back to normal. Might be something similar for you, might be that you need all new clubs to get that swing back where it belongs šŸ˜œ.

    On the soft stepping 1/4ā€, I wouldnā€™t be shy to give it a shot, I have built some demo clubs that I leave a little extra on the butt end to ensure I have the length I was in a finished club in case I need to tip it more. If not, blow the grip off and finish the set to length. I put a little tape on the grip to represent proper length and choke down accordingly. Doesnā€™t bother me, but I know some people grip right to the end of the club so YMMV. Good luck!

      DC300 Thx for the comments
      The serrated grips not for everyone but if you had an iron set for wet days that would work .
      There's a reason they refer to me as a hacker. I'm chopping not swinging . I'll try changing my mind set and try getting through the ball to a longer finish next time out. Flexibility is second thing to go, don't ask about the first .
      Your idea about new clubs seems good though.
      I don't have a shaft puller , just use home made pry bar so I'd probably ruin graphite shafts pulling them if they needed re tipping . On steel it works fine though . At this life stage I'm not thinking of investing/ aquiring lot of club building tools. Let's see: puller, swing scale, better wt. scale, bender, frequency meter, Better regripping tools. Problems problems problems

      No local fitters around that I've found yet either & too cheap to be sending clubs back & forth here & there.
      "It's a process" Tiger says.šŸ˜

      Started with 5 iron today with mfg tipping chart 1" cut then
      Butt cut to 38 1/4 " assembled , which gave me plus 1/4 " over the steel assembled length.
      SW estimated C7 w/o tip wt, C9 with 2g. Shaft was 70g cut . The stock steel shafted club calculated swing wt was D1.6
      Waiting for correct ferrules from DTG
      Man, thought I might expoxy it up.
      Feel change with about 60 g wt drop should be tellingšŸ˜„ Hoping the reshaft allows less swing effort and Sr flex little higher trajectory.

      Provisional changed the title to Mizzys > Matrix Studio 84 reshaft .

      My cut and tipped shaft turned out 70g, a lot lighter than I hoped / expected. I am afraid swing wt is too low now, so I ordered some tip wts. I'm trying to get to C7 to 9 range for the set. Thinking I'm in over my head... I thought I'd just put them together and add a little lead tape to heads, but now it'll be more than just a little .

        Provisional My cut and tipped shaft turned out 70g,

        You better stop right where you are! Those shafts are supposed to be 82 gr. and no way did you take off 12 gr. by trimming. Weigh the remainder of the shafts. You may have a huge problem.

          Par4QC
          All 6 shaft raw weights are 79-80 g on my old lab rescue triple beam scale which has been moved 3x and not cleaned or calibrated. Not to worry mate. ā˜ŗ I'll check over at Harbor Freight to see if they offer something less ancient within my budget . Doubtless old scale is off a bit. Trim & taper fit going slow but fine so far.
          Checked trimmed off parts wt. 4.5 g for 2" tip = 4.5 g
          And 5.5 g for butt. for trim of 7 iron . So numbers check ok and rechecked all lengths which match desired lengths as near as tape measure can be read.

          I really appreciate you guys looking over my shoulder with this.

          I checked wt on my Ping rapture v2 graphite r flex shaft vs dry wts of my parts to see if they're ball park &
          Ping 5 iron 403g parts total 390g w/o grip tape
          Ping 6 iron 408.5g parts 394g
          Ping 7 iron 415.5 g parts 398g

          DC300
          I tend to over think stuff for sure. It definitely adds costs too. Every time I order even small parts the shipping is expensive and I am finding I need this or that after making an order.
          I like my MP57s a lot so I really hope the Sr flex Matrix reshaft makes them playable for me again. It's an interesting process too.

          I'd never really considered how each head was carefully weighted relative to shaft wt, length, and presumably tip swing velocity to try to achieve similar feel through out the set. I have new appreciation of club builders . If this doesn't work out well, I'm thinking of going doing a Pinhawk build where all the club's inertia related specs are the same. Makes good sense now more than ever.
          Great fun, eh what??

            Provisional That ā€œfunā€ is why I stopped building clubs and sold most of my equipment. I couldnā€™t just build a set and enjoy it, oh no, I had to make everything ā€œperfectā€. I would spend an entire day laying out sets, then sell them for $65 here, ya know, back when Steve was offering more than $12 shipped.

            It was stupid, I now go with the slightly better than cut and glue approach because what I found is it never actually mattered on the course. Fitting is a science, but also an art, which means no matter how perfect they may be, there is still a good chance you painted with the wrong damn brush anyway. I still take the time to weigh things out, match sets up as well as possible, but I can knock a set out in 2 hours, when I have the tools laid out. The end results are just as good once you go hit them, those few grams and millimeters of trimming I would worry about donā€™t honestly translate to much at all. Essentially, I make sure things arenā€™t crazy off spec and compensate for variance as well as reasonably possible, then I go play golf, end of the day, thatā€™s what we are trying to accomplish. If I ever feel I need another absolutely perfect set, Iā€™ll pay someone to go through the hassle haha.

            Iā€™m going Pinhawks with some slight modification for next season, but the beautiful part is, Iā€™ll just pay Value Golf to do all the hard work and Iā€™ll basically just glue them.

              DC300
              Darrin, you make an excellent point. I started a big brewhaha a few years back with my "does fitting really matter" thread. You make my point in that I still believe if I get a club reasonably in the ballpark, I will adapt to those specs and still play my best. The other big point is that you can drive yourself batshit crazy wondering if you got them just right......especially after a bad round. šŸ˜
              Dibs on the Pinhawk irons and $12 shipped?

                Latest rumor
                Ping may be bringing out single length irons
                Named "Steve Won" for $12 shipped
                šŸ˜†

                sdandrea1 I have to buy them first, then you can have dibs šŸ˜œ. Iā€™m probably going to look for slightly more than $12 shipped, but ya never know!

                In fairness, itā€™s not that fitting doesnā€™t matter, but after years of playing, if you are into the idea at all, you know the approximate formula to succeed. You might screw around to try something new, but in reality, clubs are built to standard specs, thereā€™s only so much you can do to make them more for you. As long as you are in the right style club, with an appropriate shaft for your game at a comfortable length, I donā€™t think sweating the details down to the very last .1 of an ounce is worth it.

                DC300 I once bought a set of Titleist heads off FGI. When I got them, I weighed them all out. EXACTLY 7 gr. diff from head-head, 3-PW. Did it a couple times to make sure I was seeing what I was seeing. I had bought a set of shaft pulls off Ebay and they had come in EXACTLY 3 gr. diff from shaft to shaft, 3-PW. I put on new grips, all weighing exactly the same! Most beautiful looking set of irons I ever assembled, and felt just as great, club to club.

                Played them 1 round. Couldn't hit them. Sold them for over twice what I had in them. Buyer was nearly crying when they were delivered. Not me.

                There's a moral there somewhere. I'm sure of it.

                  Par4QC

                  I have borrowed and/or rented clubs and played my best golf.........I guess it comes down to confidence and adaptability? Luck? Karma?

                  Status report
                  Cut the 6 Matrix shafts for 5-pw to match steel I pulled from my MP 57s added 0.25" to each, originally 5 iron was ~ 38" total built length.
                  Hand prepared with 5/8 " of taper area on ends. I've still got to finish tip prep on 9 & pw shafts. Ferrules id seems small too hard to slide on shaft even after removing paint where they will sit. I had to ream & sand and heat to get to get them applied. I even reordered with same results. I had same issue when I reshafed my G15 back in Jan. Must be a point I'm ignorant of here.???
                  Heads wt descending order 5 -->pw
                  252, 259, 266, 276, 285, 290 grams each. I checked calibration of my antique triple beam lab scale & it's about 0.2 grams low and sensitivity a bit lacking so I've rounded readings to 1 gram increments. All raw shafts 79-80 grams. 40" uncut
                  Cut shafts wts - lengths - inches same progression sequence
                  71g - 36.75"
                  70g - 36.25"
                  69g - 35.75"
                  68g - 35.25"
                  67g - 34.75"
                  64g - 34.25"
                  Calculated swing wts
                  In sequence with 63 gram Star grips
                  C6, C6, C7, C8, C9, C8
                  I'll finish tip prep tomorrow
                  Waiting on tip wts and final suggestions before epoxying them together.

                    sdandrea1
                    Coming soon hopefully šŸ˜„
                    My shop looks like hand grenade hit.
                    They'll look like Landon's TFlt tours but in grey, but I'll still think they look ok with Mizzy roadrunner on soles

                    Provisional thereā€™s a lot of ways to go about balancing that set, but the 3 options Iā€™d consider are taking them all to C9 or just add 3g to the 7, 2g to the 5,6,w to balance the head weights and call it close enough, or glue them as they are and stop thinking. Off the top of my head, I think option 2 gets it close enough you will never notice, but you have this much time invested, donā€™t let me sway you from doing it the way you want them.

                    On the ferrules, I have had some that are just too damn tight in the past, I take either sand paper or my hosel cleaning wire brush and run it through the inside of them enough to make a little dust, blow that out and then a q-tip dipped in acetone to melt it back to smooth for sliding purposes, repeat until itā€™s tight, but you can move it on the tip, grab the hair dryer and get it warm, move into place.