Grafalloy Epic Top Trim Help Please

Bankshot

I want to put this shaft in a 5 wood head I just picked up from Joehatesnow (Sorry for the misspelling) but cant find tip trim instructions on line. This is the driver shaft at 68 grams, not the fairway version. Anybody have a clue?

candukid

just remember that it has a steel exterior and not graphite. Makes a difference when trimming it.
I would seriously not take more than 1/2"- 3/4" off it. I have one in my DCT uncut and it feels firm even though it is a reg.

ode

W2 trim code in the 08, 09 golfworks catalog-

2w=1/4"
3w=1/2"
4w=3/4"
5w=1.0"

Stops there....and same 1.0" for 6, 7, 8, 9woods

4.0 PTS

To muddy the waters the 08, 09 hireko catalog is a G 1 trim code, same trim as GW, but with the following notes, for an m1 bore = add 1.5", m2 bore = add 1.0", and for a blind bore = add 0.5"....Basically measure the bbgm and add that amount to the trimming. Some of the old grafalloy wood shafts had the same trim instructions as they were originally intended for thrubores.

From memory, the chatter about this shaft was that the stiff was stout, but the regular played true or even a tad soft. There is a thin steel layer so you need to be careful with the tip prep, ie do not a abrade like a steel iron shaft. It came with a green label towards the tip telling you to be careful.

ode

Here is what the hireko dfsi info says.....note that they used no trimming on blind bore head at 45", with a 195g head.....that should give you a good baseline!

Edit, for crisakes it embedded the pdf, go to page 56.

LBlack14

I've got Golfworks trim chart here for it.

Bankshot

Thanks for all the great info fellas! I played this shaft (R flex) in a driver and remember it as playing true to flex. Got it new and recall the yellow sticker, but thanks for the reminders RE the metal wrap. It was a little too heavy for me in the driver but I'm hoping it will feel good in the 5 wood.

DC300

As I recall the really big deal was not to use sand paper to prep the tip as it compromises the metal layer and breakage was common. I think scraping the paint off was the prescribed method.

LBlack14

DC300 I think scraping the paint off was the prescribed method.

What's the difference? I sanded mine fwiw.

Bankshot

LBlack14 I carefully hand sanded mine when I originally installed it, too. I think what they want you to avoid is using a belt sander that can get too aggressive very quickly.

DC300

LBlack14

Bankshot

I think that's the case, don't remove the metal, hence to idiot proof it they said to scale off the paint not sand it down because it's easy to remove the metal.

Sneakylong

DC300

Out of 53 players they only have 30 signed for next year. They franchise tagged Shaq Barrett this year for $19 million. Chris Godwin could leave as well. Those are the two that come to mind.
Can't blame guys for leaving for more money.
The O line should all be back.

They are very strong at receiver and tight end with OJ Howard coming back from injury next year. One possibility is Julian Edelman is owed $6 million from the Patriots next year. So speculation is they may not want to pay that much and he could join Brady and Gronk here in Tampa.

Brady only makes $25 million so they're well under the cap. So roster wise they look pretty good for next year.

Vegas has the Chiefs the favorite at 9 to 2, followed by Green Bay at 9 to 1 and then the Bucs at 11 to 1.

Release

I really don't think there is much difference of how one removes the clear coat and paint.

Once I traded a driver with a FGI member, it played well until I extracted the shaft for another. The tip was never cleaned, still had the original clear coat and color paint on it. Of course the paint was a little distorted because of the heat application but it did not come lose while played by at least 2 golfers.

ode

Yep, just be careful which ever way you prep, especially on a pull.