Weirfan
I can give you the basics for sure.
It just takes a bit of practice to get the steps needed and the dipping technique down.
Before doing a club head,a good way to practice is get some of those cheap plastic light
switch plates from HD.
The most time consuming part to doing a driver head is the prep work.
Sometimes I bead blast the paint off the head down to bare metal,the G400 I didn't.
Just lightly sanded with some 400 grit and clean up with some alky or acetone.
Masking off takes a bit of patience and I do the larger areas first and go around the edge next
to what you're going to paint last.I use some 1/4" stretchy automotive tape for this part.
Now you can put on your base coat which is usually white for most patterns but any light color will
work just different colors yield different results as most of the films are somewhat transparent in places.
I use Spaz Stix in my air brush but any fast drying lacquer base paint will work.
DON'T USE RUSTOLEUM!
After your base coat dries you'll want to spray some "One Hit Wonder" on it.
This stuff is a little pricey to buy a bunch of different colors so I just use "clear".
It's a special base coat paint that works really good with Hydrographics film.
https://www.ohwpaint.com/collections/ohw-by-color/products/intercoat-clear
For Hydrographic films I use this place,they have tons of good quality films:
https://www.liquidconcepts.com/shop/product-group/films/abstract
You will also need some activator:
https://www.liquidconcepts.com/shop/product-detail/activator-12oz-aerosol
Here's a decent how to video:
Only comments I have are,the film will only work in one direction on the water.
An easy way to tell is wet your finger and thumb and touch the film on both sides.
THE STICKY SIDE GOES DOWN!
Also my water temp is about 85°.
To dip a driver head insert about a 4" piece of shaft in the hosel as you'll need
something to hold onto when dipping.
Rinsing off the residue after dipping is important to get all the slimy residue off.
Any blank spots or imperfections can be filled in with a colored Sharpie pen.
Then clear coat when dry.
I usually powder coat mine,much faster and gives a tougher finish.
But any automotive high gloss clear coat will work.
"Jammin Clear" is a really good clear coat found at most auto paint supply stores.
Also look on the net, you can buy pre-assembled hydro-dipping kits that have everything
you need to get started.
There you have it,let's see what some of you guys come up with!🤔